{"id":2463,"date":"2016-12-19T11:53:38","date_gmt":"2016-12-19T18:53:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/danceonedge.com\/?page_id=2463"},"modified":"2017-12-21T09:19:55","modified_gmt":"2017-12-21T16:19:55","slug":"finding-a-new-life-on-tocclaraju","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/danceonedge.com\/?page_id=2463","title":{"rendered":"Finding A New Life on Tocllaraju"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"<\/a>

Nevado Tocllaraju from the high camp.<\/p><\/div>\n

The sky is still dark and the early morning air at 18,000 feet is very brisk when we arrive\u00a0at a short wall of nearly vertical ice. We have already crossed what seems like miles of\u00a0somewhat sketchy, but technically easy terrain, and suddenly a daunting challenge\u00a0confronts us.<\/p>\n

\u201cClimb strong! My friend, climb strong.\u201d Warns my young guide Marco, as he stems the small crevasse, and climbs confidently, up the steep wall of ice.<\/p>\n

We have been climbing with headlamps since 1 AM, and the dawn is just starting to\u00a0break. So I watch in awe as this mountain heaven awakens, and I use the brief\u00a0moments to contemplate my life and why I am here.<\/p>\n

I suddenly remember an old conversation with my friend Baird as I lent him my\u00a0guidebook to Peru.<\/p>\n

\u201cI have very few regrets in my life Baird, but one of them is not climbing a technically\u00a0difficult big mountain. I have climbed a few big ones, but they were all quite easy, and\u00a0I\u2019m probably too old now, but if I had another chance I would try Tocllaraju. It\u2019s a\u00a0spectacular peak with a moderately challenging route that looks incredible.<\/p>\n

A few months later, my old friend Gringo Negro stopped in Colorado to climb and kayak.\u00a0We\u2019ve been friends for almost 40 years and have shared many extreme adventures. His\u00a0real name is Dave Black, but he has enjoyed a very adventurous life that included a few\u00a0years in South America, hence the nickname. Dave had recently survived a broken foot\u00a0and a brutal bout with cancer, and surviving had given him a whole new perspective on\u00a0life. His attitude was very contagious, and we enjoyed an incredible week of paddling\u00a0and climbing with old friends.<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019m heading down to Peru at the end of June for the 20th anniversary of the first\u00a0descent of the Cotahuasi.\u201d He exclaimed, as we shared a few beers. \u201cIt will be a great\u00a0reunion with a bunch of crazy old geezers, and I think you know most of them. I\u2019m not\u00a0sure if I\u2019ll be able to kayak, but I\u2019d sure like to give it a try.\u201d<\/p>\n

The Cotahuasi is one of the greatest whitewater rivers in the world, and Dave had\u00a0helped to pioneer it\u2019s exploration in 1994. I had missed out on the first descent because\u00a0of work, but I had run the river in 2000 and knew most of the participants. This remote
\ncanyon is one of the deepest in the world, and contains many miles of challenging\u00a0whitewater in the middle of the spectacular Atacama desert. My expedition with Scott\u00a0Young and the late Randy Kennedy had been one of best voyages of my life.<\/p>\n

\u201cThat is definitely one of the best rivers in the world, but I remember it being pretty hard\u00a0and I was only 49 then.\u201d I replied. \u201cI have an incredible memory of that trip and I don\u2019t\u00a0want to ruin it, but it would be great to see those folks again. Maybe I\u2019ll come down and
\njust hike along and party with you.\u201d<\/p>\n

One of the great rewards of participating in extreme sports is the people you get to hang\u00a0out with, and the first descent team included some amazing characters.<\/p>\n

Many of my best trips have begun on an impulse, and I didn\u2019t have anything crucial\u00a0planned for the next month, so I bought a cheap ticket and started to plan the journey.
\nMy international travel ethics require at least a month for a trip that long, so I decided to\u00a0go 2 weeks early and at least try to climb a big mountain, and maybe Tocllaraju.\u00a0A few of my joints had been giving me grief lately, but expeditions always seem to\u00a0provide new energy, and it would be great to see the Peruvian Andes again, even if I
\ndon\u2019t bag a big peak.<\/p>\n

The month of waiting moved very rapidly, and suddenly the reality of the big adventure\u00a0unfolded.<\/p>\n

I have spent a good portion of my life traveling and fully understand the
\ndynamics of adventure travel. It is not always comfortable (especially on a low budget),\u00a0but it is guaranteed to be an adventure. Knowing this and acknowledging my age made\u00a0me a bit apprehensive, but I was still very eager to go.<\/p>\n

My flight from Denver was early, and Mary was suddenly very busy, so I decided to take\u00a0a late night bus to the airport. A few days before, she had offered to take me to a hotel
\nnear the airport and try to have a romantic evening, but it seemed like a big waste of\u00a0money that we couldn\u2019t afford, and that was a big part of the reason that our relationship\u00a0was waning.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhy can\u2019t we just be romantic here?\u201d I replied, but she didn\u2019t like that answer.<\/p>\n

We have been together for 15 years and have shared many adventures, but also\u00a0weathered a few ups and downs, and the last year had been mostly down, so it was\u00a0starting to seem like a loosing battle. My big adventures always seem to push the\u00a0downs to a new limit, so we drive to the Nederland bus station in a near silence. But, we\u00a0arrive 10 minutes early and enjoy a very pleasant conversation. Suddenly, the bus\u00a0arrives and I depart with a quick kiss and her wish of good luck.<\/p>\n

I wave goodbye as the bus departs, and another great adventure starts to unfold. The\u00a0connection to DIA is punctual, and I arrive at an almost empty airport at about 10 PM.<\/p>\n

The cost of renting a cart has gone up to the ridiculous sum of $5, but I have some heavy luggage and grudgingly pay the fee. It will be almost 8 hours until check in, and I\u2019m not very tired, so I roll my cart under a bright light and read some of Hemingway\u2019s early stories. An old bull fighter who refuses to quit, and a famous old boxer who bets against his own last fight remind me of my own dilemma, and provide some great entertainment.<\/p>\n

A few hours of reading makes me sleepy, so I roll my cart into a somewhat quiet corner,\u00a0inflate my air mattress, and roll out my sleeping bag.<\/p>\n

\u201cI can suddenly imagine what it feels like to be homeless, as I wheel my belongings\u00a0around in this vast airport.\u201d
\nI have come prepared to camp in the Andes, and my equipment makes the night at the\u00a0airport very comfortable. The only thing that is not comfortable is a very sore right foot,\u00a0but a couple of Advil ease the pain and allow for a good night\u2019s sleep.<\/p>\n

My camping spot is very close to the check in stand, so I am one of the first people in\u00a0line. The receptionist is very friendly, but the computerized scale will not accept my
\nslightly overweight bag, so I\u2019m forced to juggle a few items into my carry on. A bit of\u00a0ingenuity helps me discover that leaning the bag against the wall next to the scale\u00a0relieves a bit of the weight, and the computer finally decides to accept my bag.<\/p>\n

\u201cOK, Mr. Mattson. You are checked through to Mexico City, but you will have to retrieve\u00a0your bags there and recheck them.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWhat? That seems ridiculous! Why can\u2019t you check them through to Lima?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019ll try.\u201d Responded the friendly attendant.<\/p>\n

She struggled with the computer for about ten minutes and called her advisor for help,\u00a0but the computer had already made it\u2019s decision, and I would have to retrieve my\u00a0luggage in Mexico City.<\/p>\n

\u201cThanks for all your efforts, but the computers are taking over and it really sucks.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cI think you\u2019re right Mr. Mattson, but I\u2019m stuck with this job. Have a great trip!\u201d She\u00a0responded.<\/p>\n

My foot was still really sore, but I was very happy to get rid of my heavy luggage, and\u00a0limped over to the security section. Someone in the upper echelon of the division had\u00a0decided that geezers were low risk, so I didn\u2019t have to take off my shoes, and I moved\u00a0quickly through the line.<\/p>\n

The short flight to Houston was very pleasant, but the connection was two hours late, so\u00a0I grabbed my luggage in Mexico City and rushed through the airport.<\/p>\n

Along the way, I\u00a0met another family who shared the same dilemma, so we teamed up and bribed a local\u00a0porter to help us.<\/p>\n

Mexico City had recently expanded their airport, but the new terminal was about a 20\u00a0minute train ride away. The scramble through the airport was quite exciting, and the\u00a0sudden dose of adrenaline helped to cure the pain in my foot.<\/p>\n

\u201cGive him money.\u201d screamed the old woman in the wheel chair, who was part of the\u00a0family that I had joined. She spoke very little English, but she was very boisterous.
\n\u201cDo you believe in Jesus? We will make it. Give him money. No big bottles.\u201d She\u00a0continued to rant as we reached the terminal.<\/p>\n

I gave the helper a ten, and he helped me drag my luggage to the security counter.\u00a0It looked like we were going to make it, and I was extremely thrilled, but it was too late\u00a0to check the luggage and we had to go through security again.<\/p>\n

The gal at the security counter was very polite, but she found two ice axes, and a\u00a0scissor in my luggage and this was against all rules.<\/p>\n

\u201cPor favor!\u201d I pleaded, but it was obviously to no avail. I could have easily parted with\u00a0the scissor, but I needed the ice axes for my climb.<\/p>\n

\u201cF***!\u201d I exclaimed very loudly, in a small fit of rage. \u201cI\u2019m sorry, but this really sucks!\u201d I\u00a0exclaimed in Spanish, as I walked away and looked for plan B.<\/p>\n

I did not wish to drag all of my gear back to the other terminal, so I approached the\u00a0office of Lan Peru. The beautiful receptionist spoke a little English, and my Spanish is\u00a0somewhat functional, so we managed to communicate.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe flight for tomorrow is full and there is a $150 fee to change, so I suggest that you\u00a0go back to United Airlines, because it is their fault for being late.\u201d<\/p>\n

I solemnly dragged my luggage to a quiet bench to collect my thoughts. There didn\u2019t\u00a0seem to be any other options, so I dragged my heavy bags back to the United office and\u00a0waited in line.<\/p>\n

\u201cAll of the flights for tomorrow are full.\u201d Exclaimed the attendant after I had waited\u00a0almost half an hour. \u201cI suggest that you fly back to Houston and then Newark, and we\u00a0have a direct flight from Newark.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cNo! That is ridiculous!\u201d I exclaimed.<\/p>\n

\u201cOK! I will look for something else.\u201d He replied<\/p>\n

He disappeared into a back office, so I sat down on my pack and dug out my book.\u00a0Another family in the same predicament had retired into a nearby corner and seemed\u00a0very distraught.<\/p>\n

The attendant returned in about half an hour and summoned me to his desk. \u201cThere is\u00a0room on a flight with Avianca tomorrow. It stops in Bogota for one hour and arrives in\u00a0Lima at 2 PM. And here is a coupon for one night at the airport hotel and some meals.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWow! That\u2019s awesome!\u201d I exclaimed, as my energy level suddenly soared. I was very\u00a0tired, and had not been very excited about arriving in Lima alone at 10 PM anyway, so\u00a0this was actually a stroke of very good luck. My foot was suddenly feeling much better\u00a0and I was getting a free night in a luxurious hotel.<\/p>\n

The Marriott was only about a hundred yards from the terminal, so I eagerly dragged my\u00a0bags to the receptionist. The young attendants spoke fluent English, and allowed free\u00a0use of their phone to change my reservation in Lima. The atmosphere made me feel like\u00a0I was still in the US, but the food and wine were above average, and the bed was very
\ncomfortable.<\/p>\n

The Avianca plane was right on time and it was a bit euphoric to be heading south\u00a0again. The woman sitting next to me was wearing a uniform and obviously part of a\u00a0team that occupied a large portion of the aircraft, so I started a conversation.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou are part of a team?\u201d I enquired in Spanish.<\/p>\n

\u201cSi.\u201d She responded with a smile.<\/p>\n

\u201cFootball?\u201d I inquired somewhat jokingly.<\/p>\n

\u201cNo! Yoga.\u201d She replied with a chuckle.<\/p>\n

The short and scenic flight ended with a very quick descent into Bogota. My only\u00a0previous visit to Columbia had been in the mid nineties on a river called the Chinqual\u00a0that bordered Ecuador. It was a very challenging river, and we had enjoyed a relaxed\u00a0lunch in a remote paradise without getting our passports stamped. I had heard many
\nstories about great adventure possibilities, but the dangers of drug lords and gorilla\u00a0warfare had always dissuaded me.<\/p>\n

The air is clear, and we get a birds eye view of the city, as we approach and land. It\u00a0does not resemble Paris! My first impression is just a huge ghetto with nothing but\u00a0cheap high rise apartments, but I hope that this is not the case. We are only there for an\u00a0hour, and we aren\u2019t allowed to leave the airplane, so I don\u2019t have a chance to find out.<\/p>\n

The flight to Lima is a bit longer, and I share a seat with a Brit who has been living there\u00a0and teaching English. The pay was not very good, so he has spent most of his time in\u00a0the city and affirms my first impression.<\/p>\n

The plane enters familiar terrain as we fly over Peru, and my excitement level soars as\u00a0the high peaks of the Andes appear. They are as spectacular as my old memories and\u00a0are beckoning me to stand on their summits. Lima is buried in it\u2019s normal layer of smog,
\nand we disappear into the fog as we approach the airport. The airplane breaks out of\u00a0the clouds just above the runway, and a familiar scene of fishing boats in the great\u00a0ocean greets us as we touch the earth.<\/p>\n

\u201cHi my name is Willy. Welcome to Lima.\u201d Exclaims the energetic taxi driver who has\u00a0been sent by my hotel.<\/p>\n

Willy is a great driver, and we enjoy a pleasant conversation of Spanglesh, on our\u00a0voyage to the hotel. He has spent most of his life driving a taxi in Lima and has some\u00a0very entertaining stories to tell. His off work passion is eating, and he recommends his\u00a0favorite restaurants.<\/p>\n

\u201cIs this your first visit to Peru?\u201d He inquires.
\n\u201cNo! This is my fifth.\u201d I reply. \u201cPeru has some of the best geography in the world and it is\u00a0one of my favorite countries. My first trip was in 1978, when I climbed Pisco and\u00a0Huascaran, and I also climbed a mountain in Bolivia and hiked the Inca trail to Machu\u00a0Picchu. Machu Picchu was not very popular at that time, and there were only 2 hotels in\u00a0Aquas Calientes. I have been there two more times and have been very surprised at the\u00a0changes.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cYes! Machu Picchu has become very popular. It is our main tourist destination and\u00a0brings us lots of money from rich touristas.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe second was with kayaks in 98 when we attempted the first descent of the Huallaga\u00a0gorge, just north of here. We kayaked for five days and about 70 miles, but the river was\u00a0very steep and it started to rain, so we hiked out of the canyon and found a small\u00a0village. The villagers were enjoying a soccer game, and were very surprised to see us,\u00a0but we caught a ride with some of the soccer players back to Tranca, and found a hotel.\u00a0It was easy to get back to civilization from there.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWow! That sounds very exciting. I have never been there.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cExploring a new river is an incredible thrill, but the results are not always fantastic and I\u00a0was starting to feel my age, so I decided to come back and kayak the classic rivers that\u00a0had already been explored.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cMy friends had paddled the Colca and Cotahuasi and told me they were two of the best\u00a0rivers in the world, so I organized another expedition and returned in 2000. They both\u00a0claim to be the deepest canyons in the world and they are both incredible. The\u00a0Cotahuasi has some very challenging whitewater, and travels through the remnants of
\nan ancient Inca civilization in the Atacama desert. The scenery was spectacular and we\u00a0camped in the old ruins.\u201d
\n\u201cThe Colca is so amazing that it is impossible to describe, and also very scary because\u00a0we experienced an earthquake, and were very lucky to survive.<\/p>\n

\u201cWow! I have seen the Colca flying to Aerequipa, and it looks very deep.\u201d Exclaimed\u00a0Willy.<\/p>\n

My last trip in 2007 was to climb and ski Nevado Ishinca by Huaraz, and also to trek in\u00a0the Huayuash and climb a small mountain called the Mute Devil.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cAnd now I am back to visit some old friends and try to climb another mountain by\u00a0Huaraz.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWow! You know my country much better than I do. The mountains in Huaraz are very\u00a0beautiful, but the restaurants are not very good. The best restaurants are in Lima and\u00a0Aerequipa.\u201d He replied.<\/p>\n

\u201cMy friends live in Aerequipa, and I plan to go there.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cYou must try the Rocoto relleno. It is very good.\u201d<\/p>\n

My vocabulary in Spanish is limited to mountains, rivers, and food, so we quickly ran out\u00a0of topics, and Willy injected an old Beatles tune into his tape deck.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou like this music?\u201d He inquired, as he skillfully dodged the rush hour traffic.<\/p>\n

\u201cSi! Mi Gusta.\u201d I replied, as we arrived at my hotel, and I rewarded him with a generous\u00a0tip.<\/p>\n

The Inca Frog is a pleasant hostel, with a rooftop balcony and a host who speaks very\u00a0good English. This is not what I had expected, and we enjoy a pleasant conversation,\u00a0as I tell him about my plans and inquire about a bus ticket to Huaraz.<\/p>\n

\u201cI will call the bus station and have your ticket delivered if you desire.\u201d He offers.<\/p>\n

\u201cWow!\u201d Thanks. That will be great!\u201d I exclaim, as I suddenly recall my efforts of trying to\u00a0buy tickets without fluent Spanish in 1978.<\/p>\n

My foot is feeling a lot better, but a sudden sprint across a busy street on my way to\u00a0dinner strains a muscle in my calf.<\/p>\n

\u201cF****** body parts! Maybe it is time to just sit in my rocking chair and watch television.\u00a0No! I would rather die.\u201d I exclaim to myself, as I limp to the nearest restaurant, and enjoy\u00a0a Pisco Sour and a reasonable dinner. Mira Flores is one of the best districts in the mostly poor city of Lima, and I enjoy an interesting day at the South American Explorers Club. Adventure travelers are usually very friendly and I meet a fellow explorer who has just spent a month in Bolivia. She has some great stories to tell, and we spend a pleasant day touring the local restaurants.<\/p>\n

The bus to Huaraz leaves promptly at 9, and I am a bit shocked at the luxury. The ticket\u00a0was only $11 for a 9 hour ride on a very comfortable bus with free movies and seats that\u00a0resemble a first class airplane. The friendly hostess entertains us, and serves a\u00a0complimentary lunch which includes a chicken sandwich and a small glass of Coca
\nCola. It\u2019s not quite as good as the wine on the Argentine buses, but I am pleasantly\u00a0surprised.<\/p>\n

Buses are the main source of transportation in most of the world, and I have\u00a0experienced some very comfortable ones in Chile and Argentina. But, this is not what I\u00a0had expected in Peru.<\/p>\n

The country has changed a great deal since my first visit in 1978, and I suddenly flash\u00a0back to my first journey. The vehicle resembled an old school bus with very small,\u00a0uncomfortable seats and bawled tires that often went flat. The road is much better now,\u00a0but the scenery hasn\u2019t changed, and we enjoy brilliant ocean vistas as we cruise north
\nalong the steep coast.<\/p>\n

A student from Boulder is sitting across the isle with his friend from Montana, and we\u00a0enjoy a friendly conversation. It is their first trip to Peru, and their aspirations are similar\u00a0to mine, so I share my guidebook and previous knowledge.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou wouldn\u2019t happen to know my uncle Chip Lee, would you?\u201d Exclaimed Sam.<\/p>\n

\u201cWow! I sure do, but I haven\u2019t seen him for a long time.\u201d I replied with a chuckle. \u201cI finally\u00a0read his book about Henry Barber, and have been meaning to call him. The adventure\u00a0world is incredibly small, isn\u2019t it?\u201d<\/p>\n

After a few hours, we leave the great ocean behind and climb a steep and very scenic\u00a0canyon road that brings us to the high plateau known as the altiplano. The first view of the giant peaks brings a big smile to my face, and I\u2019m in a very good mood when we reach Huaraz.<\/p>\n

Dusk is quickly approaching, so I check into a comfortable hostel on a quiet street and\u00a0head out to explore the old city. My calf is still a bit sore, but the hostel is close to the\u00a0main square, and I find a pleasant cafe with descent food and an incredible view. The\u00a0sun is setting and the alpenglow on the nearby mountains is truly stunning. It is great to be back in this alpine paradise, and a few glasses of wine push my emotions to euphoria.<\/p>\n

My mind suddenly flashes back to my first adventure in 1978 and I remember the words\u00a0of the hotel matron at \u201cPepe\u2019s Place\u201d when we climbed Nevado Pisco.<\/p>\n

\u201cGo to main park tree blocks dat way bout sis clock and look for truck go to Yanama. Tell\u00a0dem Pisco, and dey stop by trail.\u201d He had exclaimed in his broken English. The truck finally arrived about an hour late and had spent another hour driving around the town looking for more passengers. The overloaded vehicle that was filled with goats, chickens, cows, local Peruvians, and a few climbers finally lurched out of town, and took\u00a0us on an amazing journey into the high Andes.<\/p>\n

Huaraz hasn\u2019t really changed that much and a few of the old trucks still remain, but the\u00a0streets are filled with modern taxis, and transportation has become a lot easier.<\/p>\n

The mountains have actually changed more than the city, and the receding glaciers offer\u00a0a whole new challenge to anyone who wants to stand on their summits.\u00a0I limp back to my hostel and have an exciting dream that I don\u2019t remember.\u00a0I wake up a bit stiff, and enjoy a casual breakfast with some young adventurers.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhat are you kids up to today\u201d? I enquire<\/p>\n

\u201cWe are off to climb Vallunaraju.\u201d They reply.<\/p>\n

This is a spectacular warm up peak that is visible from Huaraz, and I really wish that I\u00a0was going with them.<\/p>\n

\u201cBueno Suerte\u201d I reply, as I limp out of the kitchen, and contemplate my day.\u00a0My joints are still sore, and the altitude seems a bit harsh, but I spend a very enjoyable\u00a0day hiking around in the nearby hillsides. The exercise seems to help, and my spirit\u00a0soars as I enjoy another great view of the alpenglow. The view from the restaurant is\u00a0incredible, and the high mountains are taunting me.<\/p>\n

The high alpine zone is an incredible world, but it sets a very high standard for it\u2019s\u00a0visitors. The air is thin, the weather is always changing, and the ever changing glaciers\u00a0offer a whole new set of challenges. It is a very dangerous place for novices to tred, but\u00a0it offers an incredible paradise for those who understand and have the skills to negotiate
\nthe risks.<\/p>\n

My age at 63 is definitely a factor, but the altitude is starting to feel pretty good, and the\u00a0beckoning of the high mountains is getting stronger every day. My health had been a bit\u00a0questionable at the beginning of this trip, but the exercise has lessoned my joint pain
\nand I would love to climb another big peak. I have been hiking up to high altitude\u00a0vigilantly for the last few days, and the climbers returning to our hostel every night are\u00a0taunting me.<\/p>\n

Another fine dinner with a view of the Alpenglow on Vallunaraju pushes my desires\u00a0beyond the red zone, and I start to plan an expedition.<\/p>\n

I had tentative plans to climb with my old partner James, but we are on different\u00a0schedules and haven\u2019t managed to connect. Our last contact left him leaving for a 3 day\u00a0climb on a mountain that I have already done, so I think that I am on my own.\u00a0Traveling alone on a glacier is extremely dangerous, and the guide that my hostel
\nrecommended quoted a ridiculous price, so I head to the internet center and google\u00a0away.<\/p>\n

The two young men from Boulder that I met on the bus are busy googling as well, and\u00a0seem happy to see me.<\/p>\n

\u201cHey Sam! How is you\u2019re adventure going?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019ve been doing some great hikes, and one peak and we are heading to Tocllaraju\u00a0tomorrow. You could probably come along if you want.\u201d Replied Sam.<\/p>\n

\u201cWow! That\u2019s a spectacular mountain that I\u2019ve wanted to climb for 7 years, but I\u2019d\u00a0probably slow you down, and I\u2019m not quite ready to go. What company are you using?\u201d\u00a0I quickly write down the address and wish them luck.\u00a0\u201cGreat seeing you again. Best of luck with your climb.\u201d<\/p>\n

That night I have a really crazy dream about kayaking with my late and very great friend\u00a0Pablo. We are kayaking and stop to scout a big rapid, only to end up in another old\u00a0friends garage in a subterranean world. He is busy packing for a big river trip with\u00a0another old friend, when his wife suddenly arrives on the scene. She doesn\u2019t seem very\u00a0happy with our presence, so we paddle on downstream.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhat could this possibly mean?\u201d Pablo was one of my best old friends, and we had\u00a0shared many great adventures in some very remote corners of the world. Pablo had died\u00a0a bit too early on an extreme river in our backyard, and I really missed his company.
\nI contemplate the strange dream over a good cup of coffee, but I can only find one\u00a0meaning. Paul wants me to try this mountain.<\/p>\n

I finish a good breakfast, and wander over to the guide company that my friends have\u00a0recommended. The price for an English speaking guide for Tacllarahu is $820. This\u00a0includes 4 days for the guide and meals, and seems to be the only reasonable option.\u00a0In my youth, I had always had a firm dedication to climb without a guide, and I have
\nalways felt that a route didn\u2019t really count unless I did the hard part of leading by myself.\u00a0But, I am a bit past my prime, and It\u2019s quite reckless to climb on a glacier alone. I also\u00a0have a very big desire to climb this mountain, and this looks like my best option.\u00a0$820 is a huge amount of money for an old dirtbag who has climbed hundreds of
\nmountains for free, and the ATM\u2019s are not very tourist friendly, so I am forced to enter\u00a0the actual bank. After about 20 minutes and 3 copies of my passport, drivers license,\u00a0and credit cards, one thousand US dollars is magically delivered, and I rush to the office\u00a0to confirm my reservation.<\/p>\n

The reservation is set, and my guide will arrive in a few minutes to discuss the logistics,\u00a0so I linger in the neighborhood and return promptly at the appointed hour.<\/p>\n

The exuberant young guide arrives about 30 minutes late and we spend a few moments\u00a0getting acquainted and judging each other\u2019s skills. We will be trusting our lives to each\u00a0other in a few days, but the first impression seems quite good. Marcos has recently\u00a0returned from a successful expedition on Tocllaraju, and he tells me that the rappel
\nanchors have been fixed and that we have a very good chance of making the summit. I\u00a0tell him my plans, and we agree to meet at the Ishinca refugio in 3 days and part with a\u00a0big hug. The climbing company will provide transportation and burros for me the next
\nday at 8:00.<\/p>\n

The Ishinca hut is a pleasant refugio that sits in a pristine valley surrounded by some\u00a0very classic peaks. I had stayed there in 2007 when I climbed and skied Nevado Ishinca\u00a0with my friend James, so I know the terrain, and don\u2019t need a guide. I want to spend a\u00a0few more days getting used to the altitude, and this valley will be the perfect spot.<\/p>\n

After another night of crazy dreams, I awake early, check out of my hostel, and rush to\u00a0the office. The taxi is waiting, but 2 of the clients are late, so I relax in front of the office\u00a0and chat with a few of the friendly locals. The tourists finally arrive, and it is none other
\nthan Sam and Max. Their guide had reported sick the day before, and was a day late,\u00a0so we will hike in together.<\/p>\n

We have some very friendly chats while we are loading the burrows, but their guide is\u00a0quite young and does not speak much English, so I am very happy with my original\u00a0decision.<\/p>\n

Walking up this beautiful valley brings back very warm memories of my last trip, and my\u00a0excitement level soars as Tacllaraju comes into view. There is a small cloud hanging on\u00a0the summit, and it looks very windy.<\/p>\n

The manager of the refugio is a friendly young lad named Yuan who eagerly grabs my\u00a0pack and escorts me to a presently private room with 12 bunks and a great view.\u00a0It is early afternoon, so I take a short siesta on the comfortable bed. I wake up refreshed\u00a0and enjoy a casual hike in this high alpine paradise. The refugio sits at 14,435 feet, so
\nthe air is a bit thin and brisk, but the views are downright stunning. This matches the\u00a0height of the highest mountain in Colorado, but it is only the base camp for Tocllaraju.\u00a0She is still hiding in a shroud of clouds, but they part at dusk, and the alpenglow offers a\u00a0brief glimpse of the awesome summit. It looks steep and very big, and the reality of my\u00a0goal makes me shiver with fear and excitement.<\/p>\n

Fellow adventurers from all over the world have gathered in this pristine valley with the\u00a0hopes of climbing one of the nearby mountains, and many of them meet in the refugio\u00a0for an evening drink. This offers a unique experience to exchange tales of adventure,\u00a0and I enjoy a pleasant evening with some very interesting new friends.
\nTwo Polish climbers are part of this group and we enjoy a short conversation.<\/p>\n

\u201cQue Pais Vive? What country are you from?\u201d I inquire in my broken Spanish.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWe are from Poland.\u201d They reply in fluent English. \u201cAnd we are hoping to climb\u00a0Tocllaraju, but we have only one rope, and are wondering about the conditions, and\u00a0hoping to find a partner with another rope.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWow!\u201d I think to myself. I had contemplated coming up here without a guide to just look\u00a0for a partner, and this might have been the perfect match, but my decisions have\u00a0already been made, and I didn\u2019t bring my rope, so I merely continue the conversation.\u201cYou come from a very proud heritage, because the Polish people are very famous in\u00a0Peru. Do you know about the Polish kayakers who explored the Colca Canyon?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cYes, and we are very proud.\u201d They replied.<\/p>\n

The legends of the Colca had intrigued me for many years, and I finally kayaked it with\u00a0Dave Neff, Tom Chamberlain, and my late friend Randy Kennedy in the year of 2000.
\nWe had a very exciting journey with our modern equipment, and I gained a new respect\u00a0for the Polish team.<\/p>\n

A few climbers have returned with fearful stories of extreme wind, bad snow, and broken\u00a0snow bridges, so my fears are growing stronger every day. But, I have to at least try,\u00a0and see how bad it really is. My experience on glaciers is minimal, but I feel that I have\u00a0enough knowledge to make a proper judgement, and Marco has just recently climbed\u00a0this mountain.\u00a0My foot is feeling much better, but I have trouble sleeping at this altitude, and the night\u00a0is very long with troubling dreams. The dawn is a welcome sight, and I rush outside to
\ngreet it. A big cloud is still hanging on Tocllaraju, but the rest of the valley is clear and\u00a0sunny.\u00a0Sam and Max are preparing to leave for the high camp, and plan to try for the summit\u00a0tomorrow, so I wish them luck and embark on a very pleasant hike up to the Ishinca
\nglacier. This retraces my steps from seven years ago, and I remember a fine summit\u00a0and a great ski descent. The sun is shining, the views are incredible, and the altitude is\u00a0starting to feel quite comfortable, so I find a relaxing spot and nestle in for a great\u00a0siesta.
\nI am just awakening from a relaxing snooze, when I spot a group of four climbers\u00a0descending from Nevado Ishinca.
\nTheir trail eventually crosses my path, and I recognize the group from Washington State\u00a0that I had met in the refugio.
\n\u201cHola Amigos! How was the climb?\u201d I enquire politely.
\n\u201cIt was really awesome! But the snow conditions are not fabulous. We were planning to\u00a0climb Tocllaraju, but we have changed our mind, and will attempt Pisco (which is a lot\u00a0easier) instead.\u201d
\nThey have only one strong climber for a group of 4, so their situation is a lot more\u00a0challenging than mine, but it is another mental reminder that I might be making a bad\u00a0judgement.<\/p>\n

My life started on a small family farm in a very conservative area of western North\u00a0Dakota, but the mountains have always been a great part of my soul. Most of the people\u00a0in our small farming community had been told by the media that climbing was extremely\u00a0dangerous, so I have often been accused of being a bit crazy.<\/p>\n

I am a confessed adrenaline junkie and I enjoy pushing my limits, but I feel that I have\u00a0usually made sound judgements and tried to avoid unnecessary risks. I have had a few\u00a0near scrapes with death, but I am a surviver and have lived a lot longer than most of my\u00a0old friends had predicted.<\/p>\n

Most of my knowledge in life has been obtained from books or personal experience and\u00a0I would like to especially acknowledge \u201cHazards in Mountaineering\u201d by Wilhelm Paulcke\u00a0and Helmut Dumler, for helping me survive my early days of mountaineering.
\n\u201cDaring is fine! Reckless impetuosity is stupid! It is therefore wise to discover and learn\u00a0from the experience of others and to match boldness to mature consideration and ability\u00a0to good sense. True courage is shown only by one who is fully aware of all the\u00a0consequences of their actions.\u201d<\/p>\n

This quote by Paulcke is a great example to follow for any extreme sport.<\/p>\n

The thrill of a great adventure approaches nirvana, but a small misjudgment or a lack of\u00a0skill can instantly turn the adventure into a horrible nightmare. I have seen both sides of\u00a0the spectrum and I have a great respect for the big mountains.<\/p>\n

I am not yet ready to leave this high alpine heaven, so I wander up a bit higher and try\u00a0to contemplate the vastness of this incredible mountain paradise. There are no other\u00a0humans in sight, and the atmosphere and vistas are truly stunning.\u00a0I don\u2019t want to leave, but the dusk is arriving, so I wander down to the refugio and enjoy
\nanother great evening of revelry with the international adventurers.<\/p>\n

Sleep comes easier after the big hike, but I have another crazy dream about a snow\u00a0bridge collapsing and a very scary fall into a big crevasse. The rope catches me, but it is\u00a0a harrowing experience.<\/p>\n

A few climbers have made the summit, but they return with stories about really high\u00a0winds, and a broken snow bridge that has made part of the standard route impassable.\u00a0The alternate route involves traversing under a very serious avalanche hazard that has
\nrecently slid. The crossing is only about 100 yards wide, but it is littered with seracs\u00a0and travels under a hanging glacier. This new obstacle occurs at about 17,000 feet, so\u00a0the exposure will be in the middle of the night, which is much safer. It is supposedly still
\npossible to jump the crevasse on the descent, so we will only have to deal with this new\u00a0hazard once.
\nThe group from Washington is getting ready to hike down, and part of the group is in a\u00a0very fowl mood. Two of the climbers really want to try Tocllaraju, but their leader has\u00a0already made his decision, so they load the burros and wish me luck, as they head back\u00a0down the valley.
\nMarco is scheduled to arrive this afternoon, so I plan a casual day with a short hike to\u00a0another stunning glacial lake.
\nThe refugio has been a very pleasant place to stay, but the hygienic standards of the\u00a0kitchen are not the best. The dinner last night was quite horrible, and my stomach is a\u00a0bit angry. But the short hike helps my digestion, and I find a sunny spot to nap while I\u00a0wait for my guide. The sun is warm, and I am about to start dreaming, when I am
\nsuddenly aroused by my old friend James.
\n\u201cHola Johnny! What\u2019s happening?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWow! Great to see you. I didn\u2019t think you would make it.\u201d
\n\u201cI had to catch up with my old friend for at least one climb. I only have three more days,\u00a0but I\u2019m used to the altitude now, and my guide, Romal has climbed this mountain\u00a0before. It\u2019s harder than anything I\u2019ve ever done, but Romal says we can do it.\u201d
\n\u201cThat\u2019s great! My guide should be here any minute, so it looks like we\u2019re on the same\u00a0schedule.\u201d
\n\u201cAnd, here he is!\u201d I exclaim, as Marco suddenly arrives.
\nAfter a short round of introductions, we set a plan for the next two days.
\n\u201cThe high camp is very windy, and it is not very far, so we will enjoy the warm weather\u00a0down here, and leave about noon. We will rest there until midnight, and then start for\u00a0the summit.\u201d Exclaimed Marco.<\/p>\n

\u201cThat sounds like a good plan.\u201d Replied Romal. \u201cWe will climb as two teams, and each\u00a0team will take two ropes, so that we are independent, if anything happens. If we are\u00a0together at the summit, we can share the ropes for the rappels.<\/p>\n

Sam and Max were planning to summit today, and we have been waiting anxiously for\u00a0their return. They finally arrive at dusk in a state of exhaustion, but they have managed\u00a0to reach the summit, and are very excited.<\/p>\n

\u201cHow is the new route?\u201d I inquire apprehensively.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt was dark when we did it so I don\u2019t really know, but we didn\u2019t have any problems. The\u00a0hardest part is at about 18,000 feet, but it\u2019s quite short. The summit was windy and\u00a0really cold, but it was an awesome climb.\u201d Replied Sam.<\/p>\n

We are very relieved to see them again, but I have mixed feelings of joy and fear. The\u00a0new route sounds reasonable, but Sam and Max are only 22 and they have obviously\u00a0been pushed to their limit.<\/p>\n

The reality of the big adventure is finally near, and we spend another enjoyable, but\u00a0somewhat apprehensive evening in the refugio. The dinner is bad again, but a glass of\u00a0wine helps me choke it down, and I retire early. The altitude is definitely feeling a lot\u00a0more comfortable, and I enjoy a very good sleep with crazy dreams that I don\u2019t\u00a0remember in the morning.<\/p>\n

I wake up early and am anxious to move, but Marco reassures me that it is better to\u00a0stay here till at least noon. We carefully choose our gear for the high camp, and he\u00a0offers to carry most of it.<\/p>\n

We finally leave at about 1 PM and the route is easier than I had expected. The weather\u00a0seems to be clearing, and we enjoy a scenic scramble up to the high camp. The\u00a0moraine is a bit challenging, but not nearly as bad as I had imagined, and we arrive to\u00a0an alpine paradise at about 3:30.<\/p>\n

\u201cWow! It\u2019s not windy. This is very unusual.\u201d He remarks.<\/p>\n

We are camped at about 16,000 feet, and the views are stunning.
\nI\u2019m trying to save as much energy as possible for the big day, so I take a very pleasant\u00a0siesta and sleep like a baby. The nap ends just in time to see the astonishing alpenglow\u00a0on Tocllaraju which is both scary and invigorating. The clouds have lifted and the\u00a0summit is beckoning. It is an incredible mountain, and I can\u2019t wait to meet it personally.
\nOur view includes a full panorama of many great peaks, and my mood approaches\u00a0euphoria.<\/p>\n

Marco cooks a fine dinner, which we quickly inhale before crawling back into the tent.\u00a0Midnight will be here soon, and we need as much rest as we can get.<\/p>\n

I had slept great during my siesta, but sleep now eludes me. I have suffered with this\u00a0before at high altitude, and have learned to just find a comfortable position and rest as\u00a0much as possible. The night is very long and filled with apprehension, and I am wide\u00a0awake when Marco rouses me at midnight.<\/p>\n

The stove has been very problematic, and Marco had a big struggle to melt snow, but\u00a0he patiently starts it again, and manages to prepare some tea and a mix of granola.
\n\u201cIt was not very cold last night.\u201d I remark, as I examine the light frost on the tent.\u00a0This means that the ice has barely frozen, and the hot midday sun could be very
\ndangerous for avalanches.<\/p>\n

My stomach is still a bit angry from the horrible food at the refugio, and the middle of the\u00a0night breakfast doesn\u2019t really help.<\/p>\n

\u201cOK! Ready?\u201d Marco exclaims as we scramble over to the glacier with the light of our\u00a0headlamps.<\/p>\n

We quickly attach our crampons, and Marco buries an offering to the mountain Gods at\u00a0the bottom of the glacier.<\/p>\n

\u201cPor Pacha Mama.\u201d (For Mother Earth) He exclaims in Quechua as he buries an apple\u00a0in the snow.<\/p>\n

This is a popular Peruvian toast to the great God of nature, and I am very impressed. I\u00a0barely know him and will be trusting my life to him, and this trust has suddenly\u00a0improved. It is an awesome feeling to be on a glacier again, and we wander up a short 40 degree slope that flattens out to about 25 degrees.<\/p>\n

\u201cThis is the glacier camp.\u201d He exclaims, as we pass a flat area above the 40 degree\u00a0slope. It is only 30 minutes above the other camp and is a lot windier.\u201d
\nThe skies are black with a few brilliant stars, as we follow a faint trail of recent footprints\u00a0up the seemingly endless glacier with only the light of our headlamps.<\/p>\n

We reach an intersection of trails at about 17,500 feet, and Marco chooses a path with\u00a0only a very faint trail.<\/p>\n

James and Romel left about an hour before us, and there were three other parties at the\u00a0high camp, but we are suddenly alone.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey are going the wrong way.\u201d Exclaims Marco, when he sees 2 headlamps. \u201cThat is\u00a0the downhill route because it is impossible to jump that crevasse going up the mountain.\u00a0The terrain remains quite easy, but after about 200 yards, Marco\u2019s mood suddenly\u00a0becomes very intense.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe must go really fast here!\u201d He exclaims with a fearful tone, as he rushes off literally\u00a0dragging me across the glacier. His pace is too fast for an old man and I trip in the\u00a0darkness.<\/p>\n

\u201cI am not a cow!\u201d I exclaim somewhat angrily, and he reluctantly slows the pace, but not\u00a0by much.<\/p>\n

This is obviously the avalanche path, but all I can see is a few giant chunks of fallen ice\u00a0from the light of my headlamp as I struggle to keep up. After about 100 yards of sprinting at high altitude we finally relax, and I desperately try to catch my breath.\u00a0The terrain eases again until we arrive at the vertical wall of ice where this story began.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe will set a belay here?\u201d I inquire as I contemplate the short wall of vertical ice.<\/p>\n

\u201cOf course.\u201d He replies, somewhat stressfully as he pounds a snow stake into the\u00a0glacier, and prepares for the challenging lead.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou will jerk on the rope three times when you are ready for me to climb? I Inquire, as\u00a0he leaves.<\/p>\n

\u201cYes, my friend. Yes, I will. Climb strong my friend, climb strong!\u201d He exclaims as he stems the small crevasse, and leads gallantly up the short but very steep wall of ice.<\/p>\n

The race across the icefall has pushed me to near exhaustion, so the belay is a very\u00a0welcome rest, and I watch him disappear above the ridge. A few moments later the\u00a0rope tightens, and I can feel three jerks.<\/p>\n

The brief moments of contemplation are over, and the stark reality is staring me right in\u00a0the face. I quickly retrieve the picket and hang it on my harness as I scramble onward\u00a0in the darkness. The wall of ice is very close, and the first move is much harder than I had thought. I am standing on a very fragile looking snow bridge, and the first move involves stemming one leg way out left, and trying to get traction on a vertical cliff of very manky ice and snow. I have two ice axes, but one of them is not great, and I struggle to get good placements in the less than perfect conditions.<\/p>\n

At one point in my life I was a pretty good ice climber, but that was a long time ago, and\u00a0my weight to strength ratios have increased drastically since then. I am suddenly\u00a0wishing that I had trained a bit more for this climb, but the reality is here.<\/p>\n

One of the main reasons for pursuing adventures is that it pushes the participant to a\u00a0level that they probably wouldn\u2019t achieve unless they had to, and this is the energy that\u00a0keeps me alive.<\/p>\n

Most humans are capable of accomplishing much more than they can possible imagine,\u00a0and an extreme expedition is the best way to find out what this limit really is.
\n\u201cYou find out what you are really made of.\u201d Is one of my favorite quotes, and I am about\u00a0to find out.<\/p>\n

I plant the axes as deep as I can, and struggle to make the first move, but the foot hold\u00a0slips, and so does one of the axes, and I slip back to the fragile bridge.\u00a0I am nearly exhausted and totally pumped on adrenaline, but I replant my axes and\u00a0focus all my energy into the next effort. The foot holds are not very good, but the sudden\u00a0burst of adrenalin boosts my arm strength, and the crux is somehow conquered.
\nThe rest of the pitch involves steep but relatively easy climbing on a very exposed ridge.\u00a0I focus intensely on the job at hand, but it is hard to ignore the very deep crevasse that\u00a0waits to entomb me if I fail.
\nI finally reach the belay, and Marcos congratulates me, but quickly leaves for the next\u00a0pitch. This one is easier, but still incredibly exposed, and I am nearly exhausted when I\u00a0reach the top.<\/p>\n

\u201cWow! That is the best adrenaline buzz I have had for a very long time, but I am afraid\u00a0that this mountain might be too hard for me.\u201d I exclaim to Marcos. \u201cThat pitch was\u00a0awesome, and my adrenaline level just broke a new record, but I have to be honest with\u00a0my abilities, and I would like to come back alive. How much steep climbing is left?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cThat was the hardest part of the climb, but the last two pitches are also steep. I think\u00a0we should keep going and see how you feel.\u201d<\/p>\n

Adrenaline is a natural drug emitted by our body when we are in extreme situations. It\u00a0helps us to survive and also causes a mental state of euphoria which is somewhat\u00a0addictive. Marcos fully understands the thrill of this drug, and we bond more firmly as
\nwe rest on the exposed ridge. The dawn is finally arriving and we stop for a moment to enjoy the mind boggling vista of this incredible alpine paradise.<\/p>\n

The higher you get, the better the view, and this one is truly stunning. A small flock of\u00a0birds hovers above us, and Marcus becomes very excited.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey have come to check on us and give us luck.\u201d He remarks.
\n\u201cI love the mountains.\u201d He quickly adds. \u201cIt is so amazing to be up here. It is really\u00a0magical and like no other place that I have ever been.\u201d<\/p>\n

James and Romel catch us while we are taking our break, and we enjoy a friendly\u00a0reunion.<\/p>\n

\u201cHola Amigo! How are you doing?\u201d I exclaim.<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019m feeling great! Those last two pitches were awesome. We couldn\u2019t get across that
\ncrevasse, so we had to retrace some steps, but I\u2019m feeling strong, and the summit is
\nwithin sight.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cThat\u2019s great! I exclaim a bit reluctantly, But, I\u2019m not feeling that great. We\u2019re gonna
\ntake a short break and make a decision.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cHere, have some hot tea.\u201d Offers Romel, and the hot warm liquid is very soothing.
\n\u201cDo you know about the other snow bridge that has collapsed near the summit?\u201d
\nInquires Romel.<\/p>\n

\u201cI heard about it, but I think that it is not a big problem.\u201d Marco replies. \u201cI think that you
\ncan find a new route to the left.\u201d<\/p>\n

This adds one more question to my reason to be here, as I struggle to catch my breath
\nand make a logical decision. My emergency stash includes some energy gel, which I quickly inhale. But, as I reach for my water bottle to wash it down, I am shocked to find out that it is empty. I had almost one liter left, but I have obviously neglected to close the lid properly, and the water is gone.
\nThis is another huge blow, and maybe a sign from the Gods to turn back. But, the
\nweather is perfect, and the summit is beckoning.
\nThe pitch steepens to about forty-five degrees as we struggle onward into the heavens.
\nThe sun is shining and the summit is in sight, but my energy is not returning. The mild
\ncough that started this morning has come back to haunt me, and my legs are also
\nfeeling a bit weak.
\nThe rest of the climb looks moderate, but the exposure is very intense, and a simple
\nmistake like tripping on a crampon could result in a death fall for both of us.
\nThe summit is about 600 vertical feet away, but it will take at least another hour at my
\ncurrent pace, and the summit is really only half the journey. Many alpine accidents occur
\nduring the descent and this one will demand a very focused mind.<\/p>\n

We finally reach a short plateau, and I struggle once again, to catch my breath.
\nI am very nearly exhausted, but the weather is perfect and the summit is near, so it is
\nvery hard to stop and turn back. My life has been filled with many such decisions, and I
\nhope that my experience has made me wiser. I suddenly remember some of my kayak
\ntrips where I have made decisions to run or portage a serious rapid. The decision to
\nportage took away the fear and was an easy decision, but the thrill of running the rapid
\nwas lost forever. But, I also remember deciding to run a few rapids that I really
\nregretted. Dancing on the edge is such an incredible and addictive thrill, but falling off is
\ndown rite terrifying and often deadly. I have experienced the bad side of this thrill on
\nmore than one occasion, and I hope that I have the sense to make the right decision. I
\nknow that I will be missing an incredible experience by stopping, and I may regret it
\nlater, but I must trust my inner instincts and my old body which is giving me some very
\nstrong signals.
\n\u201c I cannot go any farther.\u201d I gravely confess to Marcos, as we sit down for another break.
\n\u201cThat\u2019s OK. This will be our summit.\u201d He replies, as we find a comfortable spot to enjoy
\nthe great vista.
\nThe sun is up and this alpine heaven is awakening as we enjoy a very relaxed
\nlunch before heading down.
\nJames and Romel are approaching the summit when we leave, and it is very difficult to
\nturn back, but my decision has been made.
\nA few hundred yards of easy descent leads to the top of the crux and Marco coaches
\nme to the fixed anchor. The next move involves a 180 foot blind rappel off of a 2.5 foot
\nsnow stake that has been pounded into the snow ice mixture of the glacier. I have
\nclimbed enough to trust it, but Marcos words of advice as I start to rappel do not add to
\nmy confidence.<\/p>\n

\u201cBe careful to jump over the two crevasses.\u201d He warns as I start down the blind rappel.
\nHis advice is obvious as I reach the midway point, but the only way to ovoid the hazard
\nis to do a Marlboro man jump which will put quite a bit of stress on the single anchor.
\nMy old instincts kick in and the jump is perfect, but I am very happy that I have saved a
\nbit of my energy.
\nThe second crevasse is much easier, and I reach glacier firma just in time to drop some
\nof my excess baggage from the foul food.<\/p>\n

The sun is still shining and the giant and very challenging K2 of Peru, Huantsan is
\nbeckoning.<\/p>\n

\u201cThat is the most challenging mountain in Peru, and I really want to climb it.\u201d Remarks
\nMarco, as we stop for a short break.<\/p>\n

\u201cMy good friend Dave from Colorado climbed it in 1977 with a French team.\u201d I replied.
\nAnd he said it was awesome.<\/p>\n

\u201c\u201dWow!\u201d He replied.<\/p>\n

The rest of the descent was quite easy until we arrived at the large crevasse that had
\nforced us to change our route. It didn\u2019t look that bad to me, but Marcos was very intimidated.<\/p>\n

I put him on a boot axe belay as he contemplates the distance of the jump and the
\nextreme depth of the crevasse. After two false attempts and a search for a slightly narrower precipice, he finally jumps and succeeds in landing on the other side.<\/p>\n

Forty-five years of skiing and jumping have prepared me for this moment, and the jump
\nseems fairly easy, but Marco has obviously been very apprehensive about this
\ncrevasse, and is elated to have finally crossed it. He is laughing hysterically and his
\nenthusiasm is contagious, so we take a short break and enjoy the euphoria. I am
\ngradually getting to know the young man who I have trusted my life with, and he gets
\nbetter by the moment.<\/p>\n

I can only imagine what he thinks about the old man who he is also trusting his life to.
\nThe descent route is not exposed to the avalanche danger that we had experienced in
\nthe middle of the night, but the warm sun is rapidly opening new crevasses, so we
\ndescend cautiously back to the high camp.<\/p>\n

I am very tired, but it is a bit euphoric to be back on terra firma, and we relax in the
\nwarm sun and mind-boggling views of the high camp.<\/p>\n

James and Ramon have managed to reach the summit and return exhausted, but very
\njubilant. I must admit that I am somewhat jealous, but I am very happy for their
\nsuccess. This is the first 6,000 meter peak for my friend James and definitely the
\nhardest mountain that he has ever climbed.<\/p>\n

A storm is rapidly approaching, so we load our gear and head down the somewhat
\nsketchy moraine. This is the last obstacle of our expedition and the loose rocks are a bit
\nhazardous, so we proceed with caution. We safely cross the moraine and follow the
\nseemingly endless trail back to the hostel just as the new storm hits. I will always feel a
\nbit sad about not seizing a perfect weather opportunity on this great mountain, but I feel
\nthat I have made the right decision. If anything had gone wrong, it would be extremely
\nmiserable and life threatening to be up there now. The great mountains of the world are
\nnever really conquered. They will sometimes allow a few strong individuals to share
\ntheir summits for a few fleeting moments, but when they unleash their fury, no one is
\nsafe. This awesome mountain gave me an opportunity to share her summit, but I made
\nthe choice to turn around, and I will probably never return.
\nThe failure may haunt me a bit, but I have the great memories of conquering the steep
\nice wall and being near the top of this majestic peak. Tokllaraju will always be a great
\nmemory, and I feel that she has made me a much stronger person.
\nI must admit that the failure to summit this great mountain haunted me for quite some time, but I still feel that I made the right decision, and the overall experience really changed my life. My relationship ended, my diet changed, and I feel younger now than I did 5 years ago. Just being close to the top of this mountain gave me a huge boost in confidence, and I continue to climb and explore this incredible planet.<\/p>\n

Purchase Books<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The sky is still dark and the early morning air at 18,000 feet is very brisk when we arrive\u00a0at a short wall of nearly vertical ice. We have already crossed what seems like miles of\u00a0somewhat sketchy, but technically easy terrain, … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-2463","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/danceonedge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/2463","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/danceonedge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/danceonedge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/danceonedge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/danceonedge.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2463"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/danceonedge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/2463\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2465,"href":"https:\/\/danceonedge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/2463\/revisions\/2465"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/danceonedge.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2463"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}