Return to the Animas

Posted on July 24, 2012 by John

Animas River below Silverton, Colorado Dana Kopf photo

The mighty Animas starts as a tiny creek near Silverton, Colorado, but it soon picks up steam as it drops through an incredible canyon in the heart of the San Juan Mountains. Dozens of majestic peaks tower above the lush canyon, and myriad small waterfalls enhance the spectacular scenery, as well as add to the river’s volume.

Being there again revived some incredible memories of my youth, and we paddled safely to No Name Creek. My life had changed quite a bit in the last twenty-five years, but this canyon was still the same, and the scenery was better than I had remembered.

https://danceonedge.com/?page_id=793

The Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River

Posted on July 14, 2012 by John

“Man must feel the earth to know himself and recognize his values…. God made life simple. It is man who complicates it.”

— Charles A. Lindbergh, Reader’s Digest, July 1972.

Calendar Falls on the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone. One of my favorite spots on the planet.

The sun sets rapidly over the high horizon of the deep canyon, and we do not know how many more miles of whitewater need to be traveled. In front of us is a Class IV rapid leading into a blind corner that cannot be scouted, and our food is nearly gone. But we have a comfortable camp, the scenery is awesome, and the weather is perfect.

Table of Contents: https://danceonedge.com/?page_id=22

The Grand Canyon of the Colorado River

Posted on July 14, 2012 by John

How Kayaking Ruined my Climbing Career

Glenn Rink rapping off of Snoopies Nose after the first ascent. He forced me to put my name on the waiting list after this trip.

Lava Falls at 75,000 CFS

Mr. Mattson: You are currently number 814 on the waiting list for a private permit to float the Grand Canyon. You may apply as early as next year, but if you wait one year your chances of getting a preferred date will be much better.

“Wow! Maybe I should start kayaking.” My mind was buzzing with new ideas, as I walked away from the Aspen post office. I spotted a garage sale a few weeks later, and traded an old pair of skis for an old kayak, and the needed accessories. I had a small Sears Raft, and managed to talk some friends into a maiden voyage down a class II section of the Roaring Fork river.

Captain Gundy performs a wedding ceremony on his homemade raft at Vacey’s Paradise.

The new craft was an instant hit. The boat was quite stable and could be maneuvered very easily. I was cruising upright around the rocks instead of bouncing upside down over them, and the cold water splashing on my face was very refreshing.

We stopped for lunch on an empty beach with a fabulous view of Mount Sopris, and I felt like I had entered a hidden paradise in my own backyard.

The rest of the story: https://danceonedge.com/?page_id=734

Climbing, Kayaking, and Trekking in Peru

Posted on July 12, 2012 by John

Peru is an adventure paradise. The many great mountains provide fabulous alpine climbing, and the deep canyons are filled with extreme whitewater and ancient Inca ruins.

Randy Kennedy in the deep and mystical Colca Canyon.

The lofty country of Peru is home to more than forty 6000 meter peaks and the Equatorial climate is very good for climbing. The routes vary from moderate to extreme, and the open valleys provide easy approaches, stunning vistas, and great trekking routes.

The Colca claims to be the deepest canyon in the world, and it’s shear walls and ever-changing rapids have provided a thrilling adventure to many hardy paddlers. The scenery is absolutely stunning, and the local trails provide excellent trekking.

Climbing and Trekking in the Cordillera Blanca

This famous mountain range rivals the Himalayas in everything accept altitude. The highest peak is just over 22,000 feet, and dozens of lessor mountains and remote valleys stand waiting for eager adventurers. The busy city of Huaraz can easily be reached by bus and is the starting point for most of the climbing and trekking activity. The town is filled with hotels, guides and trekking companies, and is the perfect place to organize an adventure. The dry season climate ( May through July) is usually very good. “Classic Routes of the Cordillera Blanca” by Brad Johnson is an excellent guidebook.

Exploring the Cordillera Huayhuash

This truly spectacular range of mostly limestone mountains has a very interesting history, and is far less crowded than the Cordillera Blanca. It was a main base camp for the infamous “Shining Path” gorillas in the late eighties, and the Peruvian government closed the whole area to foreigners for several years. The rugged peaks have been the scene of many climbing epics, including Joe Simpson’s “Touching the Void,” and the steep faces offer many challenges to modern climbers.

The trek around the range is one of the most spectacular hikes in the world, and a small peak called the “Mute Devil” offers a fun challenge for moderate climbers. The political conditions of this remote area are constantly changing, but tourism is growing, and the locals are usually friendly. Huaraz is the best place to organize a trek or transportation to this unique range. Jeremy Frimer’s “Climbs and Treks in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru” is highly recommended.

Kayaking the Colca Canyon

The infamous Colca Canyon has been the scene of many epics, but the deepest canyon in the world offers stunning scenery, and an experience that you will never forget. The whitewater is challenging, and the shear walls filled with loose rock and the ever-changing rapids make every descent a new adventure. The circling condors and steam from the many hot springs create a surrealistic mood as you drop ever deeper into the great abyss. This fabulous river is run commercially by a few brave companies and is a perfect 3-5 day self-support kayak trip. Peruwhitewater is an excellent source of information.

Kayaking through an Ancient Inca City

The Cotahuasi might be the best whitewater river in the world. The dry climate is perfect for a self-support kayak trip, and the remote Atacama desert provides a very mystical setting. This pristine river flows through the middle of an ancient Inca civilization, and it is possible to camp in many of the ruins. The crystal clear water that flows from the high Andean peaks tumbles through dozens of miles of continuos class III-IV rapids that are pure bliss for an expert paddler. The spectacular canyon walls are not as shear as the Colca, so there is little danger from rockfall, and campsites are easy to find. There are a few intermittent class V’s, but the rapids are easily scouted, and may be portaged if desired. Two optional Class V+ canyons can provide a bigger challenge for hardy paddlers, and portaging the big falls with burro support is a memorable experience. “Dancing on the Edge of an Endangered Planet” by John Mattson provides a reasonable description of the logistics.

The Many Other Natural and Man Made Wonders

Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley are stunning relics of the Inca Empire, and Cusco is a great place to spend a few days. The miles of rugged coast line offer fabulous surfing, and the Amazon Jungle is a world of it’s own. Lima is big and dirty, and traveling can be a bit challenging, but Peru might be the best adventure travel destination on Earth. A little knowledge of the Spanish language is almost crucial.

Earthquake in the Colca is a thrilling story of paddling the Colca.

Adventure in the Andes describes an early climbing expedition.

The Mute Devil and the Volcanos of southern Chile is a thrilling saga of climbing and skiing.

The Grand Canyon of the Cotahuasi might be the best river in the world.

Earthquake in the Colca Canyon

Posted on July 10, 2012 by John

Hiking into the deepest canyon in the world.

The steam from the many hot springs and the occasional giant condor made us feel as if we were dropping ever deeper into a great abyss. But as we reveled in the incredible scenery, the rapids became a bit more serious.

https://danceonedge.com/?page_id=24